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Riga

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Riga is the capital and largest city of Latvia. It is located in north-eastern Europe, bathed by the Baltic Sea and situated in the heart of the Gulf of Riga, at the mouth of the West Duin River. It is Latvia's most important city and the country's main political, cultural, population and economic centre. Riga's historic centre has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and the city is particularly notable for its Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture, comparable in importance to Vienna, St Petersburg and Barcelona.

 

The Second World War saw the Soviet occupation and annexation of Latvia in 1940. Nazi Germany also occupied Latvian territory between 1941 and 1944. The Jewish community was forced to live in a ghetto in the Maskavas neighbourhood and in a concentration camp in Kaizerwald. The Soviet Union took control of the country with the defeat of Nazism.

 

The economic reform policies of Perestroika led by Mikhail Gorbachev led to a situation in the late 1980s where several Soviet republics, including Latvia, were able to gain their independence. The country declared its de facto full independence on 21 August 1991, which was recognised by Russia on 6 September of the same year. The country joined the United Nations on 17 September, and all Russian military forces were withdrawn between 1992 and 1994.

10 Places to visit in Berlin

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1. Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

It's absolutely essential to better understand the country's troubled history. The idea behind it is to show what happened to the Latvian people "during the Soviet and German National Socialist regimes from 1940 to 1991". And, more than that, "to honour those who were unjustly convicted and murdered, who died fighting for foreign powers, who suffered and died during repressions and deportations, who fled the occupying forces and were scattered around the world".

2. Riga Central Market

On a happier note, Riga's Central Market is also worth a traveller's attention. From the outside, it looks like four hangars from an old aerodrome; inside, it's a space that, like many other markets across Europe, has been adapted to the new times - tourism included.

 

And so, after touring much of the market (one of the pavilions was closed for work!), the feeling I got was of a market that was cleaner and tidier than I was expecting. I usually prefer more chaotic markets, but I still enjoyed visiting Riga's Central Market. Especially the fresh produce areas - cheese, fish and the like - and, of course, sampling some local cuisine.

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3. Freedom Monument

On the subject of freedom, I'd like to briefly mention the so-called Freedom Monument, which symbolises the idea of Latvian independence. Nobody will visit Riga because of this monument, but it's worth it for the symbolism.

4. Latvian National Library

I had seen some photographs of the interior of the Latvian National Library and I was curious. It's a modern, imposing building, built on the banks of the River Duina, on the "other side" of the city centre. One day, when I was wondering what to do in Riga that morning, I decided to visit the library.

Inside, a congress was taking place, but visitors were still allowed. That's how I learnt about the photogenic wall of books at the heart of the building, which I had already seen pictures of. But what I didn't realise was that there were exhibitions on the different floors and, what's more, that it was possible to go up to the top floors to see the city from above.

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5. Agenskalns Market

Before visiting Riga, I didn't even know about Agenskalns Market, which is why it wasn't on my mental list of things to do in Riga. Then, while researching the historic Kalnciema neighbourhood, I found information about the market and decided to go and visit it. Well, it was one of the biggest surprises of my Riga itinerary.

 

It's a very well organised market, with fresh produce on the ground floor and small stalls for eating and drinking on the upper floor. It has a very, very pleasant atmosphere and is perfect for combining with a visit to the Kalnciema neighbourhoo

6. Historic Kalnciema Quarter

The wooden buildings of the Kalnciema quarter, located at the intersection of Kalnciema and Melnsila streets, are part of Riga's architectural heritage and date back to the 19th century. In the official words, "they represent the era of late classicism in Europe".

 

The restoration of the neighbourhood's wooden houses began in 2001 and today seven renovated buildings surround the courtyard and are open to the public. Without a doubt, this is one of the places to visit in Riga. The wooden houses in the surrounding area are beautiful!

 

But that's not all. There are regular musical shows that bring many people together in an atmosphere of open-air socialising, accompanied by snacks and wine or beer. I really enjoyed a late afternoon drinking beer and listening to poorly sung Brazilian music.

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7. Riga Art Nouveau Centre Museum

Billed as the "only museum in the Baltics dedicated to Art Nouveau heritage", the Riga Art Nouveau Centre shows the interior of a house in a building constructed in 1903 by Latvian architect Konstantīns Pēkšēnsdo.

 

The museum shows the real interior of a period flat, complemented by a film - which I recommend watching - and interactive multimedia material that I found very interesting. All in all, I enjoyed my visit, although I wasn't fascinated. Not least because I didn't want to see the staff dressed in period costumes which, in my opinion, give off an air of falseness that I really don't understand.

 

I would draw your attention to the building's staircase, which is something out of this world.

8. Art Nouveau on Alberta Street

The Latvian capital has a monumental architectural heritage, with rich Art Nouveau façades. It's a delight to stick your neck out and look for the decorative details of buildings and mansions, and in few places is this as rewarding as on Alberta Street.

 

If you like architecture, don't miss this part of town. It is there, in one of these magnificent buildings, that the so-called Riga Art Nouveau Centre is located.

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9. Riga Cathedral to see the pipe organ

Many cruise ships dock in Riga with thousands of passengers on board. On those days, from mid-morning until mid-afternoon, there will be several large groups of tourists strolling through the streets of the historic centre accompanied by a guide and their flag, and visiting places like the cathedral.

 

So when I tried to visit Riga Cathedral for the first time, it was closed due to a "private concert", apparently for the tourists on the cruise. There's nothing you can do about that, but here's a reminder to keep an eye on the up-to-date information on the cathedral's website.

 

So why are these concerts special? Because the music is played live on a pipe organ - and the pipe organ in Riga Cathedral is a work of art. Built in 1884 by the famous organ-building company E. F. Walcker & Co, it is considered one of the "most famous organs in the world". It's beautiful!

10. Climb the tower of St Peter's Church

If there's one place you really have to go to see Riga from a wonderful vantage point, it's the tower of St Peter's Church. It's the tallest church in Riga, and from its tower you can see the red roofs of the historic centre, the modern part of the city, Riga Bay and the West Duina River. A must-see!

 

Maybe that's why, after taking the lift up to the observation platform open to the public, I let myself stay up there for a long time. Contemplating. Taking photographs. Soaking up the unrivalled beauty of that privileged viewpoint over an old city that UNESCO protects.

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How to get There?

✈️ Riga International Airport (RIX) is located 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) southwest of the city center. Here are your options for getting to Riga city center:

🚍 Bus: Bus 22 is the most budget-friendly option to get to the city center. It departs from the airport every 20-30 minutes and takes about 30-40 minutes to reach the final stop, Abrenes iela, near Riga Central Railway Station. The ticket costs €1.50 and can be used for 90 minutes of travel on all Riga public transport.

The Lux Express Shuttle Express Bus connects the airport to the city center in 25 minutes (duration may vary depending on traffic). The ride costs €2 and can be purchased online or on the bus.

🚖 Taxi: Taxis are readily available outside the arrivals hall. The ride to the city center takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic. The taxi fare starts at €10 and may increase depending on the time of day and traffic conditions. You can use apps like Bolt or Uber to request a taxi. The base fare on these apps is generally cheaper than traditional taxis.

🚗 Rental car: If you prefer the flexibility of having your own vehicle, you can rent a car at the airport. There are several car rental companies located in the terminal. The drive to the city center takes about 15 minutes, depending on traffic.


🎫 Tips: If you buy a bus ticket at the airport, remember to validate it before boarding the bus.
If you are traveling with heavy luggage, it may be more convenient to take a taxi or rental car.
Please be aware that travel times may vary depending on traffic.
For more information, please visit the Riga Airport website: https://www.riga-airport.com/en

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